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Monday 19 October 2015

Running With Water

I’m sitting on a stone outside the B’n’B’ near one of Mantua’s outlying villages at 7am on a Monday morning, waiting for my camp director to pick me up so I can begin my ninth consecutive week at camp. There is no one else around. Just me, sat on a stone, with an empty b’n’b at my back and a maize field stretching out in front of me.

I’m preparing to move on once again, with the paraphernalia of my identity as an ACLE Tutor scattered around me and my rucksack at my feet. Not just through my time working for ACLE, but throughout my life, I have become comfortable with my identity as something of a nomad. I spent years fighting it but I finally surrendered – catchword of the summer – and the liberation and growth that has happened since then has been immense. Perhaps that’s why I travel.

‘What was it my dad called me the other day? Ah... Transient One.’

We are all transient. Coming to terms with our transience is one of the most difficult life lessons we all have to learn I suppose. And so, sitting on that stone outside that nameless B’n’B’ in rural Lombardy, feeling very smug about having just applied a Very Big Life Concept to a Comparatively Small Occasion, the name of this blog was born.

This entry is dedicated to documenting those glorious, transient memories I made over the summer, because despite thinking we’ve come to terms with the transient nature of everything, we will still try to contain, to quantify and keep hold. This is a re-living, a re-telling, and a re-sharing of moments with those I made these memories with, as well as evidence of the fact that you can never predict what is going to happen when you travel.

#1
Looking out of the coach window on my way from Ciampino airport into the city centre upon my arrival in Rome, I spot a man headering a football right in the middle of two rows of stock-still traffic.

#2
The scent of honeysuckle that coats the walls surrounding the garden at the back of the Vatican Museums.

#3
Selfie sticks are possibly the most irritating things ever invented.

#4
When your amazing Sicilian host family take you to the opening night of a beautiful club on the beach and you dance until 3am and they arrange for the DJ to give you and the friends you’re travelling with a shout-out on your last night in Sicily,and Jellyfish happens on the dancefloor, and lemon vodka is literally a cup of vodka with a slice of lemon in it (well, not literally...), and Giovanni ‘Travolta’ Cilia OWNS the dancefloor with his moves and then you go to bed with your head ringing and knowing you have a six-hour coach journey the next morning but sod it that was amazing and you LOVE ITALY!

#5
Eating pecococca per vino for desert; a variety of peach that is ONLY eaten after being steeped in red wine. My host father said he’d let me know when it was ready to eat, so there I am, patiently contemplating my wine-soaked fruit, when my eight-year-old host sister appears and swipes my host father’s cup from under his nose, scoffs the fruit, drains the glass and smacks her lips in satisfaction.

#6
Singing along to ‘See You Again’ in the car on the way from Rodia to Messina Coach Station, where we took the coach to Puglia, and struggling not to cry.

#7
Flashmobbing Alberobello the night we visited the trulli.

#8
Steaming along the autostrada from Rodia to Messina on the back of Giovanni’s motorbike.

#9
Watching the energy in my class turn from borderline chaotic to totally Zen in the space of one David Gray song.

#10
Host father: Don’t worry Charlie, tomorrow we will stay at home and eat soap.

#11
When your incredibly sweet host mother turns to you and announces, ‘But Charlie, it’s SO DIFFICULT to cook for you because you’ve been all over Italy and tasted so much already!’

#12
Sitting at the table with my host family in Savona while my sweet little host brother recites a poem he wrote in Savonese dialect for me, which his father translates into Italian and then his mother in turn translates it into English.

#13
When your nine Level Threes burst into song in the middle of your lesson, and you realise they’re singing ‘Glad You Came’ just for you.

#14
Falling asleep next to Ewan on a mountain-side, surrounded by surely the most beautiful panorama the Little Dolomites have to offer.

#15
Sitting outside ristorante ‘Algiubagio’ in Venice, twizzling our Spaghetti Primavera, watching the boats going to and from the Fondamente Nove. Ewan chuckles and observes that we’re seated in the romantically lit outdoor area of a posh restaurant overlooking the lagoon...right next to a bus stop.

#16
Sitting in the kitchen with Susie one day after camp, scoffing Sicilian biscuits and discussing the beauty of travelling. I speak no Italian, German or Portuguese. She speaks no English. It doesn’t matter.

#17
Wednesday of my final camp. Our most adorable camper can only come in for the afternoons because his school has started already, and as he enters the canteen at lunchtime, the whole camp erupts into a huge round of applause and cheering.

#18
Lexi commenting on the pizza in da Michele, Naples:
‘I feel more strongly about this pizza than I do about some men that I’ve dated.’

#19
Every time Brigitte tried to speak Italian

#20
Giovanni on the dancefloor in M’ama Club, going crazy for the Black Eyed Peas.

#21
Giovanni modelling his new beach shorts and shuffling around the garden in his six year-old daughter’s shoes, singing his shoe size, because the flip-flops his family got him to match are too small.

#22
The Thursday of our last camp together, JosuĂ© and I are ‘hiding’ from the children during a scavenger hunt. He is balancing and bouncing on a row of low bike railings and I’m sat with my back to the school wall. We’re chatting about life, about knowledge, about work. He starts to bounce with a look of intense concentration and then announces, whilst bouncing and frowning at his feet, arms out for balance and lips slightly puckered, ‘Yeah... I really want a proper job. I think. I mean, I like wearing a tie, you know?’

#23
Host brother: What is the name of the wife of the chicken?
Me: Dorothy.
Host brother: ...

#24
Being thrown around in the waves the day we went to the beach at Tono, Viola shrieking with euphoria and somehow managing to jump on top of me every time I succeed in regaining my balance. Something is hilariously funny and for some reason I just can’t stop laughing, which doesn’t help the falling-over situation. Water in my mouth, nose, eyes and ears, sun on my head, the sound of five people screaming with laughter and, through the spray, Viola, Morgana, Brigitte and JosuĂ©’s faces mirroring my own, Carlotta sat on the water’s edge and Mia barking at us protectively.

#25
On Bergiggi beach with Becci, the waves are too rough to swim so we’re concentrating on just staying upright. A particularly strong wave sends me crashing into Becci, who has her back to me. She whoops in surprise and flings her arms out in a fruitless attempt to break her fall. Snorting with laughter and spitting out sea water, we struggle back to standing and brace ourselves for another wave.

#26
Becci coming out of the toilet at the Centro Nautico Vadese and announcing, ‘It’s a squattie. I just pissed all over my shoes.’

#27
Just had the strangest encounter in the McDonalds at Verona Porta Nuova station. A lady (she was a bit rough-looking but she didn’t look totally destitute) came and asked for my fries. Now, I’m really not averse to sharing my fries with a roughish-looking lady who is polishing off a burger I guess another generous-looking traveller donated, so I told her very clearly (in my baby Italian) that yes, she could take one or two. But when she went to take the lot, I became a bit confused. I removed her hand from my lunch and repeated my offer of a few, not the lot. But I guess that’s an all-or-nothing situation, and she obviously felt I should check my privilege, because she told me to go fuck myself. Now why did I come out of that feeling like a bad person? And why, if she was so hungry and I so stingy, didn’t she just grab the 5 euro note and my purse, which were sitting right next to the tension-inducing fries the whole time? 

#28
Asking the bus driver for my ticket to the airport in Italian, and HE RESPONDS IN ITALIAN! Well it only took until my very last morning...


This is just a handful of the most precious moments I shared with just a few of the people I had the pleasure of meeting over the course of the summer: mostly fellow tutors, travel companions and, largely, the wonderful host families I had the luck to live with. Once again, thank you.

Monday 12 October 2015

L'Antica Pizzeria da Michele

L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele
Via Cesare Sersale 1
Open from 10.30am – midnight Mon-Sat

If you do nothing else during your trip to Naples, visit this pizzeria. Service leaves rather a lot to be desired but oh, sweet mother of all things holy, the pizza is a gift from the gods.
This is the pizzeria Liz Gilbert wrote about in Eat Pray Love. It has pictures of Julia Roberts tucking into her Margherita con doppia mozzarella (double mozzarella) pasted all over the walls. The pizza oven is IN the main seating area, and there is magic in the hands of those pizza chefs. After finishing her first slice, my travel companion Lexi placed her hands on her hips, eyed her pizza frankly, then looked at me and announced, ‘I feel more strongly about this pizza than I do about men that I’ve dated.’

The decor will probably remind you a bit of your Nan’s utility room, (cracked white and green ceramic tiles and strip-lighting, anyone?) and the long plain tables facilitate seating for maximum customer capacity rather than an intimate meal, but that’s part of the charm of the place. You can’t help but get talking to the people next to you, especially if you’re there alone.

My biggest piece of advice would be to GET THERE EARLY. It’s only a 10-15 minute walk from the central station, but make sure you arrive at 7pm on the dot or you will end up queuing half the night for your dinner.  If you’re going for lunch, be there at 12, or you run the risk of them running out of dough and that would just kill you. The Margherita con doppia mozzarella is €5 and is the most expensive pizza on the menu. Otherwise you can order a straight up margherita or a marinara (no mozzarella) for €4.50. All drinks cost €2.

Very little can prepare you for Neapolitan pizza. I had been in Italy for four months already by the time I hit Naples, and even my mind was blown. To give you some indication, this is how Liz Gilbert described it:

‘Holy of Holies! Thin, doughy, strong, gummy, yummy, chewy, salty pizza paradise. On top, there is a sweet tomato sauce that foams up all bubbly when it melts the fresh buffalo mozzarella, and the one sprig of basil in the middle of the whole deal somehow infuses the entire pizza with herbal radiance...  I love my pizza so much, in fact, that I have come to believe in my delirium that my pizza might actually love me, in return. I am having a relationship with this pizza, almost an affair.’


There you have it kids. Enjoy.

Monday 5 October 2015

Summer of Surrender

This summer, I spent just under four months working and backpacking around Italy teaching English at summer camps. I'm not sure where it germinated, but somewhere around week four I realised that myself and those around me were using the word 'surrender' a lot, and that this word was starting to become the catchphrase of the summer. Here is a list of everything I found myself surrendering to over the course of my travels.

Surrender to the nerves and excitement of an upcoming trip... You have no idea what the next four months holds in store...

Surrender the little voice that is telling you to stay. You were born in the digital era – you’re never really that far from home.

Surrender all of the non-essential stuff that won’t quite fit in your 35ltr rucksack. You’ll only end up dumping it somewhere along the way.

Surrender to the difficulty of watching your Mum put on a brave face as she stands on the station platform while you put her through the stress of watching you go into the unknown again. Sorry Mum.

Surrender to a similar feeling when your partner takes you to the airport and you wade resolutely through security while he walks in the opposite direction.

Surrender to the grin that erupts all over your face as you leg it through arrivals to the coach that’s waiting to take you to your final destination. (Or starting point??)

Surrender to the satisfaction of having successfully navigated unknown streets to find your room. So you made a doofus of yourself finding the right building, but you’re here and it’s always better to ask, right?

Surrender to the exhaustion.

Surrender to the weather. Hot or cold, you’ll acclimatise.

Surrender to the embarrassment of asking for help on the metro and realising you were putting the ticket in the wrong way. You’re a tourist.

Surrender to all of the working and living conditions you find yourself in over the summer.* They will all ultimately make you more adaptable, more flexible, and a lot more resourceful.
*unless they’re really awful. Then speak up.

Surrender to the Glad Game,* and play it every day without fail.
*see Pollyanna

Surrender when a child in your class is sick from the heat and has to be taken away in an ambulance. Surrender to the guilt. Surrender to the helplessness. You gave them breaks, you made sure they were hydrated – his mother didn’t tell us he suffered from low blood pressure.

Surrender to the full spectrum of your emotions. One day you will laugh until you choke, the next you will cry until your eyes itch. It’s all part of the game.

Surrender to the fact that you will have no control whatsoever over your life for the next four months. It’s liberating.

Surrender your time-keeping device whenever possible.

Surrender to generosity.

Surrender to the size of Italian vodka measures. It will just help you tear up that dance-floor even more enthusiastically!

Surrender to the moment.

Surrender when your host families take five hours to plan an activity together. Find a chair, take a seat, they’re Italian.

Surrender to the fact that mosquitoes ADORE you.

Surrender, occasionally, your own individual desires if they are not in accordance with the rest of the group. Don’t sacrifice all your plans, but it’s good to realise that some things are just intended for next time.

Surrender to JOY.

Surrender to the consequences of your mistakes. All of them.

Surrender to the fact that situations arise when you least expect them.

Surrender to the inevitable.

Surrender to the heat.

Surrender to the discomfort.

Surrender to the pleasure of air conditioning and a cold shower after a long, sweaty day at work.

Surrender to embarrassing situations.

Surrender to the bliss of stepping into a cold shower after ten hours of relentless SWEAT.

Surrender to dictatorial camp directors. They’re in the minority and there’s really nothing you can do about them.

Surrender to exhaustion in all its manifestations.

Surrender to changed plans.

Surrender when people let you down.

Surrender to being pushed out of your comfort zone.

SURRENDER when the universe proves to you YET AGAIN, that THINGS HAPPEN FOR A REASON.

Surrender to the bliss of tucking into a really, really good pizza. There is honestly nothing better in this world than a perfectly done pizza. Honestly. (You think you’ll enjoy that oven-bake-from-frozen supermarket trash after you’ve eaten pizza at a buffalo mozzarella festival in Naples? You’ve been spoiled for life darling. Surrender to it.)

Surrender to the fact that you’ve become an insufferable food snob.

Surrender your expectations.